From Baku’s Buzz to Gabala’s Yawn: A Tale of Two Moods (Day 3 & 4)

Continuing our travelogue series by one of our esteemed readers, Vice Admiral Biswajit Dasgupta (Retd.), – A Week by the Caspian: Baku’s Buzz and Gabala’s Serenity (Day 1 & 2), we’re moving on to the next few days of his trip to Azerbaijan, at the end of last year.

Enjoy this travelogue, sprinkled with humour, interspersed with adventure and unpretentious reviews. For those contemplating a visit to Azerbaijan in the near future, this detailed and honest travelogue is just what you need to decide whether this destination is for you.

Azerbaijan (Baku-Gabala) Day 3

An easy start after a packed Day 2. Breakfast was the usual fare with a slight twist. There was fried brinjal and what seemed like fried ‘parwal’ slices on the menu. Never in my life have I eaten ‘begun and potol bhaja‘ for breakfast, except in Kolkata. What these things tasted like in Baku is best not discussed, lest any self-respecting Bong (Bengali) gets offended.

We set off for Gabala (also known as Qebele) at approximately 10:30 a.m. MFS (Man Friday Shahin, our driver) said it was a four-hour drive. Being a Monday morning, he apologised for the heavy traffic. How would he ever understand if I told him that there was less traffic there than if a bandh was called on a Sunday in Kolkata? So I just let it be and allowed him to clip out of the city at a handsome pace of easily over 70 kmph.

Samaxi to Qebele countryside – Photo credit: Biswajit Dasgupta

This was our first experience of the Azerbaijan countryside. As Baku fell away behind us, the countryside turned into a mildly undulating, barren, light brown expanse on both sides. It was truly tank terrain – my Armoured Corps friends would go into raptures running their tanks at full zip. 

Baku stands 28 metres below sea level, and Qebele stands 783 metres above sea level. We began a gradual climb along the serpentine highway as MFS stepped on the gas, clocking 125 kmph with ease on the long stretches. Qebele lies approximately 220 km West-Northwest of Baku, and the highway runs south of the Great Caucasus Range, with Qebele situated at its foothills.

We halted briefly at the Samaxi (pronounced Samakhi) Juma Mosque, which is a recommended stop. It is an ancient mosque, built in the 8th century, and the first one to be built in the Caucasus as Islam spread in the region. The mosque was damaged during the Armenia-Azerbaijan War and subsequently restored and beautified. 

Travel Tip: Tourists are permitted inside, and women are required to cover their heads in the mosque precincts and wear clothing that covers the entire body (shorts, etc., are not recommended). The interiors of the mosque are well-designed and carpeted from wall to wall.

As we left the mosque and headed to a streetside cafe for a cup of coffee, we were swept by a sense of déjà vu. MFS was waved down by a police vehicle chasing them. He went and settled his offence with the patrolman and returned as if nothing had happened. When I asked him why the policeman had stopped him, he said that he had exceeded the speed limit. Had the policeman written out a ticket, MFS would have been set back by 50 AZN. Skilful negotiation let him go without a ticket and lighter by only 20 AZN. Felt like home…

As we left Samaxi, the landscape changed from a light brown to increasing greenery on both sides. We started to lose some of the height that we had gained. The countryside featured a few vineyards and their accompanying grape plantations, alongside corn fields and pomegranate orchards. Another striking feature of the journey from Baku to Qebele was that there were several Olympic coaching centres, presumably for selected sporting disciplines that train their Olympic talent. Institutional support of this nature for sportspersons is essential for excellence – something India could imbibe.

As we drove into Qebele with the Great Caucasus Mountains looming ahead, MFS was once again stopped by a police officer. This was almost a friendly encounter as MFS rolled down the window and shook hands with a policeman. After a brief exchange, we moved on. MFS stated that the officer was seeking a tip from the visiting tourists. It is quite a done thing, he said. MFS told the cop that he is a frequent visitor there and was out of cash, but he would be back next time…

En route to our hotel, we stopped for a bite at the very touristy Nohur Lake, which has boating, go-karting, and other attractions. The eateries along the lake edge indulge in daylight robbery. A humble chicken burger can set you back by an astonishing 23 AZN (approximately 1,200 Rupees, so be warned). The smaller stalls are a much better bet. However, the choices are limited, and the prices are steep compared to a regular eatery of similar standard. 

We checked into the Lakeside Hotel and, after a couple of hours of rest, set out to Qebele town for souvenir shopping and exploring other items that tourists typically pick up here, such as saffron, dried fruits, and tea. Apart from souvenirs, for an Indian, nothing else makes sense to buy, as the asking price was several times more than what they cost back home. So, Shoppers, STOP.

We returned to roost after some local food at a streetside eatery – notably the Kartoflu Peraşki – a bhatura with a boiled potato filling, eaten with tomato ketchup. 

The sights of Qebele Town await us tomorrow.

Azerbaijan (Baku-Gabala) Day 4

Qebele is a small town with very little to offer in terms of tourism. Our friend, MFS, informed us upon arrival here yesterday that all places of interest could be visited in 2 to 3 hours. It made me wonder if it was worth the effort driving up here. We decided to start the day at noon, after as late a breakfast as was possible without blood sugar levels dropping.

Despite our best efforts at mock-sleeping, we were up and about by 8 a.m. After a cup of tea, some more forced lazing and a leisurely walk around the property (which took all of 5 minutes), we went down to the house cafe for breakfast. Just to remind you, we were at Lakeside Hotel (if you can call a lake 2.6 km away ‘beside’ you).

It was a passable breakfast with little to offer to the vegetarian palate. Vegetarians would be well-advised to carry their ‘thepla-achaar’ complex with them if they do not wish to go hungry. Thankfully, we are carnivorous and managed a decent fill. Ask the waiter what meat is being served, especially in cold cuts, if you are particular about avoiding a specific sort.

MFS arrived at the appointed time, and we set off to experience the sights of Qebele. The first stop was the 7 Gozal waterfalls, which translates to “7 Beauties.” Our itinerary waxed eloquent about the surreal beauty of the 7 falls. I could neither figure out the 7 waterfalls nor the beauty supposedly associated with them. It was a trickle of a regular mountain waterfall, accessible through a touristy approach lined with food stalls and miscellaneous shops, which led to a steep and irregular climb of about 200 steps around which the waterfall descended. Nothing to write home about, for an Indian. The Jog Falls in Karnataka or the Hundroo and Jonah Falls in Jharkhand are about 500 times better in every aspect. So, people, strike this out from your itinerary.

We were to stop next at the Nohur Lake but gave it a pass since we had stopped by there yesterday and apart from paddle boating (which we were not keen to do) and go-karting (which we’d rather not try), there wasn’t much to gain – and we had already shot the ‘proof’ photograph yesterday – so there was no social media pressure as well. Onward, therefore, we drove on towards the Tufandag Cable Car ride, which is a 30-minute drive from 7 Gozal waterfalls (and much closer to Qebele Town).

Dag means ‘mountain’ and hence, the name. This place is quite picturesque and has a hotel from which the cable car ride starts up the mountain. Only two of the four stations were working, and we booked our places for the ride up. Leg 1 was gradual and sedate, but Leg 2 was much steeper and longer. Those with acrophobia or vertigo can choose to avoid Leg 2, as we found a few women in a somewhat distressed state after the ‘up and down’ experience. For others, it is a good joy ride. On top of the second leg, there is a ‘Mountain Swing’ which is not for the faint-hearted. I don’t fancy paying money to be swung out into a valley a couple of thousand feet deep, however robust the strapping-up may be. 

Thus, concluded the sightseeing in Qebele. The cable car was a face-saver. Otherwise, one would have felt rather useless in the lap of the Caucasus. We returned to the hotel in under 4 hours, resolving to return to town for dinner to make up for the lack of ‘action’ during the day.

We returned to the vicinity of Tufandag for dinner at a restaurant situated on the banks of a waterway, where a crooner performed local songs on recorded tracks. We sampled the ‘dolma’ that Azeris swear by – a minced lamb filling inside a grape leaf wrapping, and cooked. ‘Okay okay’ is how I would describe its effect on my palate. The grape leaf was somewhat rough and chewy, but the filling was, well, ‘okay okay’. We decided to order the more familiar pizza thereafter and wash it down with a pint of beer to restore normalcy.

Thus ended the Qebele saga. Those visiting Azerbaijan should consider an alternative destination if a better option is available. We return to Baku tomorrow to address our unfinished agenda.

Got a travel story to share? We’d love to feature your journey—humorous, heartfelt, or offbeat on The Lifestyle Portal. If you’ve got a tale that deserves to be told, DM us here to be part of our growing community of storytellers.

Want to write about your travel experiences but don’t know where to start?
At The Write Compass, we help you turn your memories into meaningful stories. Whether you’re writing for yourself or to share with others, our guided writing sessions will help you find the right words. Connect with us for a Discovery Call and let’s charter a plan for your academic/ professional pursuits with writing.